Arthur baldwin turnure biography of christopher
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The History of Fashion Journalism 9781847886569, 9781847886552, 9781474279741, 9781474279727
Table of contents :
FC
Half title
Title
Copyright
Dedication
Contents
ILLUSTRATIONS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
1 INTRODUCTION
2 A SYMBIOTIC RELATIONSHIP: THE ORIGINS OF THE MODERN FASHION PRESS
3 LA PARISIENNE: EARLY FASHIONABLE ICONS
4 PATRIOTISM AND COUTURE: FASHION JOURNALISM BETWEEN THE WARS
5 DEMOCRATIZATION: POST-WAR SEGMENTATION IN mode MAGAZINES
6 THE GOLDEN AGE: FASHION JOURNALISM AND HAUTE COUTURE IN THE 1950s
7 THE RISE OF INDIVIDUALISM: THE 1960s AND 1970s
8 COMMERCIALISM VERSUS CREATIVITY: THE 1980s AND 1990s
9 A GLOBAL DISCOURSE: THE NEW MILLENNIUM
10 FACING THE FUTURE: THE EVOLVING FASHION MEDIA
BIBLIOGRAPHY
INDEX
Plates
Citation preview
THE HISTORY OF mode JOURNALISM
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THE HISTORY OF mode JOURNALISM Kate Nelson Best
Bloomsbury Academic An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
Bloomsbury Academic An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square Lon
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Magazine covers
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Vogue
Vogue began life in December 1892 as a weekly magazine of fashion and society news ‘for a small circle of socially elite New Yorkers’ founded by Arthur Baldwin Turnure, a Princeton graduate and socialite.14 It was purchased in 1909 by Conde Nast, a young American previously employed as advertising manager for Collier’s magazine, who
saw in Vogue a chance to test his theory, developed while he was an advertising man, that there was a place for a medium which would bring together without waste circulation the persons who could afford luxury goods and the persons who wished to sell them.15
Edna Woolman Chase, general editor of Vogue from 1914 to 1952, later recalled that ‘[Nast] didn’t want a big circulation; he wanted a good one’.16 He converted Vogue to a semi-monthly publication, introduced colour covers from 1910, and employed modern artists and photographers to create a visually arresting high-class fashion and society journal that could generate a large i